Every-day People, part 1: Mi Familia de Catamaran

Cruisers are a different breed of person.

I knew it to be true before I even left. Let's face it, you start to get an idea after a few family get-together's Still, my understanding of the concept was not only validated but renewed with vigor not 24 hours after arrival. It is the romance of the landscape that inspires you to go sail, the success and excitement that inspire you to keep sailing, but it really is the people you meet that inspire you to make it a lifestyle. With that in mind, I have decided to dedicate a series of my travel updates to the people I have met as a way of better telling my story, since they have either contributed to or have been the drivers of all the things I've seen, done, and enjoyed since coming to the Caribbean.

It really has to start with the people I got to know over the first week and a half at the marina. I already mentioned getting invited for drinks with the four with the million-dollar sailboat/yacht/lounge/cinema.

There was another from our tennis crew who stood at about 6'6” and I couldn't help but nickname Woodstock. He kept his pony-tail hair under a ball cap that had more holes in it than my tennis racket. It fit on top of his care-free head perfectly, though I think if I'd touched it it would have turned to dust.

The couple from Canada who rounded out the tennis group had mad skills on the court and if they were playing at the same Texas Hold-em table would rob you blind before turning on each other. Being cruisers and therefore minimalists by default, they catch most of their diet when they're underway. But regular fishing isn't they're style. They catch their food by spear-fishing with Hawaiian slings.

One of the constants at the marina was the guy everyone's probably seen in a movie somewhere, typical if you even call it that, the one with the slightly southern accent who might be at the bar, might be watching t.v. in the lounge, might be coming out of the bano or just walking around aimlessly, but always has a knack for popping up wherever and whenever you are, and always with a lesson or a story to tell. Who can't love a guy who's flown choppers over Vietnam, ran intelligence from East Germany, married a Brazilian and still offers to take you in his dinghy up to a local hotspot to meet the owner's beautiful daughter?

The night before we headed out, the yacht next to ours was having a little party, which of course we were invited on board for after getting back from dinner. While my aunt and uncle decided to pack it in, I was more than willing to step over to the dark side. Here I met a whole new parade of wonders, not least of which was the captain. This man was such a genius in the DIY category that he had designed a hard roof for their boat, took pure pleasure in the red carpet he had installed in his engine room, and most importantly of all, built a self-dispensing beer cooler above their freezer. Woodstock was in attendance with his wife who was nearly as tall as him. An anesthesiologist who was quite inebriated was able to (multiple times) pinball herself seemingly on accident off of at least two people and safely into a chair. The captain told us each seat was thus strategically placed since they have so many parties on board. Lastly was a spitting image of Captain Barbossa from Pirates of the Caribbean, who insisted on standing on the very stern of the ship and threatening to fall backward multiple times. Like any proper sailor, he never lost his footing no matter how much he teetered and swayed, and I realized later that his proximity to the rear of the boat was directly related to a slightly impaired bladder control. This was the man who was apparently responsible for the Dr. Pepper advertisement of the 1970's that propelled the soda to national popularity.

When we finally cut loose from our mooring at Marina Catamaran in the morning of Saturday the third, there were many goodbyes and promises of staying in touch. One thing about cruisers is that they all have boat cards which they pass around, and they all seem to run into each other quite frequently (apparently the seven seas are still part of a small world). But we had at least five other cruisers there at our dock, helping us push off, like there was nothing in the world they'd rather be doing than helping their friends off, and it became quite a momentous occasion.

I got the feeling that they had all been in that same position before. After all, with any large heavy moving object, it's easy to hit something, so the more eyes and hands, the better. Still, I was amazed at the ease of it all. How easy these people come to aid one another, how easy they smile, how easy they party; how easy they share the fantastic stories of how they came to be where they are, which were often not so easy. These people are and were hard workers, integral parts of society, game-makers and game-changers. Not one of them were idle in their lives; if they had been, they wouldn't have been able to afford their seemingly idle lives now. But of course, even these lives are far from idle, for they are filled with taming waters, constantly fixing things, meeting new people, and making it fun. I expected to meet people who were running away, who lived on their boats because they disagreed with the politics or culture or common life they had left behind. Not so. These people are the A-type personalities, the ones who get stuff done and got stuff done, who knew what they wanted and knew how to get it: they knew how to succeed. And here I find them all bunched together in one place? And in a tropical place? What a ride.

Happy trails, smooth sailing, smile big, buy someone a drink, do what you love and make it look easy, especially when it isn't.

On your mark....get set.....

Not much time to get the word out, but we're setting sail this morning! Aunt Barbara took a ferry to Livingston, the port town at the mouth of the Rio Dulce and got us all checked out of Guatemala. So today, with any wind in our favor, we'll be able to head straight out and north for Belize...otherwise we'll camp out another night at a place further down-river. But regardless, we'll be out of this marina and out of internet contact until further notice. I'll keep the updates coming as regularly as I can, but hopefully the next time you'll hear from me will be from Placencia, Belize, midway through my SCUBA course!

Smooth sailing, happy trails, take a deep breath, and GO!

Caffeinated Calm

My Grandfather was the kind of man people admire. He was one of my heroes. Even his oldest daughter reminisces about how he knew everyone and everyone knew him. But in the short time I knew him, I didn't know many people that HE admired. But this little tale is about one of the few. Ted.

Ted is a pilot, like my grandfather was, and he owns a motorized glider that he takes out from time to time. He's also madly in love with his wife, and I think it is for this reason more than anything else that my Grampa thought so highly of Ted.

Ted and his wife, I don't know her name, just that he calls her "Corky", have been married a long time. And with all couples who are madly in love and have spent so much time together, they have their little quirks, their routines, their traditions. Ted and Corky's tradition is coffee. They buy raw coffee beans, and each morning they'll peel and roast them in a giant cast-iron skillet, and grind them up by hand before brewing their morning cup. Needless to say, they do their coffee right.

Now, Corky has had Multiple Sclerosis for forty years of their marriage. She is now confined to a wheel chair and has many more health problems, but still they go through this ritual each day. Recently, Corky had to have surgery on her throat, which prevented her from being able to eat or swallow for a couple of weeks, her source of sustenance needing to come from a tube to her stomach. You can imagine this putting a damper on their daily coffee activity, but for crafty old Ted, this didn't stop him.

While Corky would be unable to taste their magnificent brew, Ted decided to engage her other senses of sight, smell and feel. He brought a selection of beans with him to the hospital, and by her bed, he was able to brew their daily coffee, though not quite as traditionally as normal. She was able to smell the beans, picked which ones she wanted, and after the coffee was made, Ted would put 20 cc's of it into a syringe and deliver that to her feeding tube. She would have her sip, then he would take a sip, and repeat.

Every so often, there are things that happen in our lives that, as petty as they seem when we look back on them, can really upset our ebb and flow at the time. We'll get flustered, frustrated, downright angry, and life stops being what it should be. Even being down here in the warm and welcoming tropics, I've had moments of the day where the stupidest little thing pisses me off, and then EVERYTHING goes wrong. But the first time this happened to me on this trip, my aunt told me this story, and I realized just how infinitesimal my plight was and how comical my frustration was.

Life can be a very harsh and unfair place where very bad things happen to people who don't deserve it. That's why it's important to make the best of every blessing we get, and toss out the rest. Emotions like anger, resentment, fear, and apathy are the only kinds of garbage that I don't feel bad throwing away.

When I get up every morning, I'm going to think of Ted as I sip on my morning coffee, and know that I'm going to have a good day.

Cheers.

Lluvias

I was still pretty young the first time I drove to Arizona with my dad. In fact I think it was the only time I've road tripped to Arizona. I'm completely guessing here, I'm going to say somewhere around ten. There isn't a lot I remember about it, but one memory takes hold above anything else that came from it. It was pretty soon after entering the Arizona border, when it started raining. The landscape was fairly arid, but I recall a long line of the giant telephone poles and some red mountains off in the distance. My dad pulled over suddenly, told me to climb out and smell the rain. I was perplexed, but I did what he asked. It was the most amazing thing that had ever permeated into my nostrils. Warm and sweet, like I was standing in a green house full of some magical flower. I was speechless as I looked half excited/half inquiring at my Dad, who only said, "Arizona Rain". I haven't smelled anything like it since, but it has caused a fascination and somewhat of a romantic relationship between myself and the water that falls out of the sky.

The people from Oregon reading this I'm sure are rolling their eyes, or should be, since rain is such a frequent occurrence back home, and it certainly doesn't have any kind of smell that would make up for the general dreariness that it causes. Nevertheless, I'm generally a rain fan. Remember this and smile as I recite my new line of trouble, just as I had to do... multiple times.

Last night was my first big rain down here in Guatemala. It has continued off and on for most of the day, and this evening was our first consistent break from it. I hadn't been expecting to see much but a few drops while I was down here...I was proven very wrong. It dumped. and dumped and dumped. During one particular stint, I am awakened by drops falling on my hand, and I jolt up with the thought of leaking pounding in my skull. It's nothing really, but drops coming from a hatch which is supposed to be sealed shut still causes a minor annoyance. Grumbling, I wrack my mind for a simple, creative, and quick fix which will allow me to maintain what dry patches of sheet I have left and get back to sleep as soon as possible. My raincoat. Perfect. The things meant to get wet, it can act as a shield. But what will hold it down? I'd never forgive myself if I let the wind blow it away. But the continual water drops falling on what is now my head has more pull than it should, and I go outside with the coat, hoping to find something heavy to hold it in place as I go. I see the towels. Coincidentally, they were left hanging on the life-lines so they would dry. It wasn't much, but they were soaked and heavy. I was too tired to think of a better alternative. i threw my coat over the hatch, threw the towel over it around the edges of the hatch, and that was that. The rain was coming down so hard that while I had not even been out from under the leaky Bimini while outside, I still came back into my cabin wet and shaking like my dog after a bath. In any case, I slept dry through the rest of the night and more of the morning than I would prefer.

The day was pretty slow, compared to my previous...jeez, is it Monday night already?...six days prior, since it was the first day of frequent rain. Stayed on the island all day, reading, caught up in this book The Hunger Games. Either that or putting a layer of water-proofing paint on some bracket for some place. When the sun broke, Fred and I would scramble out, him to the engine compartment, me to the hatches and windows, putting on silicone sealant and covering the windows in Gorilla Tape.

I think the most charming part of the day was in the late morning during a break we thought would last longer than it did, and we unfurled the Spinnaker sail (oddly, it had gotten wet from being out on deck last night). While we only let half of it out of it's bag, it was already spreading across the whole boat when the wind picked up. Seeing that multicolored sea of nylon dance around like that gave me just enough time for a brief sigh of contentment, before I noticed the rain clouds inching closer behind it. The first wave hit was relatively weak, and we let the sail be, cleverly forecasting that the forecast would call an end to the west wind's mid-day cry session.

But you can guess that the forecast did follow our direct instructions. Rather, the west wind had been cheered up by our silly shenanigans, stopped crying, and decided to piss on us instead. Sooo my uncle and I sheepishly bowed our heads, took our licks like men. And when the second and third and fourth humiliating yet awe-inspiring downpour had run it's course, we took down the majestic sail to be "dried out" another day, hopefully soon when we're out in the middle of open ocean with nothing to run into. And, publicly admitting our defeat, the weather rewarded us with the first sunset I was able to capture with my GoPro. Of course, the standard remedy to a long day's suffering was required, as per any proper celebration (see prior blogs, keyword: cervesa).



With the short moments of cloud break and with sunshine fading fast, I hit the pool and snapped a few test pictures under water with toy.



I think I've spilled enough (pardon the pun) for one day. Smooth sailing, happy trails, don't fly your spinnaker in 20 knot winds, don't EVER take an un-potty trained dog on a sail boat... and when there's so much rain falling that it looks like the sea's upside down, just smile and think about how cool it is that you can breath under water.

We're out of fuel, so we must be close.

It's interesting how one singular part of a day can stick out in your memory, despite everything else that happens in that one day. Sometimes it's a moment or event that sums up the entire day, but sometimes, like this time, it doesn't, but it pokes at you just the same saying, "hey, you're going to remember me!" It is from an event like that happening today which led to the title of this as well as the new description under my refurbished, and now visible, title.

It's a line, slightly altered, taken from a movie called "Captain Ron" starring Martin Short and Kurt Russell. The neighbors whom I mentioned before in their million dollar mansion of a sail-yacht INSISTED that I watch it before I set sail, and were even so generous as to let us watch it on their boat on their enormous projector screen. Talk about sailing in royalty. But the movie is hilarious, I highly recommend it to anyone who has any kind of admiration or dreams of sailing. The sound track is fantastic set alongside camera shots of sweeping Caribbean waters with a lone sailboat, mainsails flying. The beauty of the landscape, the ridiculousness of kurt russell's eye-patch-wearing character, and the constant reminders of, "that's what you DON'T do", by the experienced sailors sitting next to me, all will stand out.

Other important segments of the day: playing more and much better tennis in my vibram five-finger kso's. the balls of my feet hurt much more than the did, but those things really are versatile. Also finally discovering tortillas sold in town that HAVEN'T been pre-fried (it's a harder task than you'd think, being in a little guatemalan hovel).

I have to include my daily ride on the dinghy. I'm getting much more comfortable navigating the thing, and those short rides have become my favorite part of the day. being out on the water, flying over the wakes with the humming of the engine, feeling the wind and spray on my face, all the while knowing it's me guiding this worn-out blow-up torpedo....it's bliss.

Happy trails, smooth sailing, use your eyes, don't forget to enjoy the little things, and don't forget to enjoy the little things.

Se trata de la vida

So of course the first two days in Central America have been amazing beyond any words I could articulate to justify what I've seen. It's absolutely a different world, different and yet the same to what I expected. But one thing I can absolutely articulate is that the last two days have had more game changers than I expected or have ever had before in my first two days to any other country I've been to.

1. Situation: leaving for the airport. Description:I slept through my alarm so we left 20 minutes later than were supposed to. That one happens all the time, no big deal, it happens all the time. Effect: minor concern. Treatment: being an slight ass to the lady at the check-in counter and pushing my way through security.

2. Situation: Houston flight. Description: Somebody on the flight before mine relieved themselves in their seat. Translation: somebody shat. in their seat. Effect: Hour-delay while somebody tracked down another seat cushion. Reaction: It takes five, ten minutes tops for these guys to fix a wiring problem with a wing, but apparently it takes an hour to get a friggin cushion so somebody can sit in the seat. I mean for gosh sakes, just upgrade the person assigned to that seat to first class on the next flight, caution tape it off, and fabreeze the crap out of it. problem solved.

3. Situation: Belize. Description. First of all, I flew into Belize City. I was supposed to meet my aunt and uncle their with their boat, but se la vi, that plan didn't work out. Their boat was getting repaired and (go figure) they didn't get done, so my aunt, all by her lonesome, hopped on two buses from the tiny shantytown in Guatemala where their catamaran is docked, six hours of travel, just to meet me. From their, we stayed in a very pleasant little hotel across the street from (go figure) a RADISSON hotel, in Belize City, and took another two buses the next day back down to Guatemala. Overall, the trip was not bad, though some of the roads in Guatemala aren't paved, so the van was at times a bumpy ride. But, on recommendation, I ordered some tacos on the border, and as expected, they were delicious. Only problem: we almost missed our bus from Florez (closest town to Tikal, which is the largest Mayan Ruins in Central America) to Frontera where we were going. Effect: In the rush, We left my aunt's bug screen door, which I had hand-carried all the way from Portland in a cardboard box, on the bus. We didn't realize it until we were AT THE BOAT. Reaction: minor heartbreak. Treatment: Cervesa, food, and muy cervesa.

4. Situation: going to town. Description: Uncle Fred let me man the dinghy. First time operating a small motor with the transmission built into the handle. Effect: slightly larger learning curve, and almost bashing said dinghy into the dock. Treatment: more driving, and muy cervesa.

5. Situation: tennis. Description: got invited from the "neighbors" next door, who are sailing between four people what looks to be about a million dollar sail boat. 55 feet of architect/sailor catnip. Anyway, invited without a racket and without tennis shoes. Effect: blisters on hands from using a racket untouched for eight years, blisters on feet from wearing old boat shoes on a concrete tennis court, and very fun but very pitiful tennis. Dad, you'd be ashamed, but hey, I haven't played so what are you gonna do. Treatment. Lotion. and cervesa.

You know, I've long since given up trying to plan my trips to a T, because they NEVER go as you plan them. But they are always adventures, and each plan that goes so magnificently awry makes it that much more adventurous. Which is EXACTLY why I started this blog.....well that and I'm the type that forgets what he did the day before, so I have to write everything down. Almost every event has been a fantastic moment, and I can't soak them all in fast enough. Most of all, I'm thrilled to finally be down here. It's been a long time planning, and while we haven't even set sail yet, my mind is already blown. It's tropical, it's hot, it's wild, it's laid back, it's absolutely a third-world atmosphere, and my eyes are OPEN. And I've slept like a log every night I've been here. In hopes not to jinx it, I'll knock on wood, that my nights will remain that way while I'm here. We have some pretty loud toads, so we'll see.

Happy trails, smooth sailing, watch your step because the boardwalk might not always be level, and remember that sailor's maintenance comprises mostly of duck tape, WD-40, and CERVESA.

buenos noches, mi amores

Fish, Fur, and Family Feud - Canuck Chronicles day 34

One situation to describe how well family week went…I’m currently writing this blog update during a home made game of family feud using otter and gray whale trivia. Its genius, and some of the ridiculous guess answers are devastatingly gut-busting:

“What is the gestation period of gray whales?”

“2 YEARS 1 MONTH!!”

“2 years 1 month gestation period for a 900 pound infant?! I hope not!”

And this was only the end of the week. I can’t say I worked very hard today as it was one of my last full work days and I haven’t slept much in the last few days, but at the same time I don’t feel too regretful based on our level of success the days prior. Two days ago we saw a bear, multiple eagles, a seal, and an entire family of four river otters who put a show on for my kayakers and myself not once but twice during the transect. It was probably the best field day of the trip, and I doubt I’ll have a chance (and I don’t know if I want one) to have a better field day with the three days I have left in Ahousaht. And after seeing all that, we spent the afternoon dunking the kids with the kayak and having a big day on the water, jumping off the top of Stardust (which at high tide was higher from the water than the pier) and swimming across the inlet. The water was cold, but the heat from the past few days made it worth it.

My group wasn’t quite as lucky yesterday (or today for that matter) but all of our luck apparently got transferred to Drifter (our whale-watching boat) who ran into a fishing boat that had just finished a catch of over 70 Coho salmon and were generous enough to give two to us (granted Tyler knew the fishermen). So that night the boys (including myself) built up a cedar fire, burned it down to coals, threw on some wet alder wood and slow cooked the heck out of both of those fish. Everyone loved it and the best part was I didn’t have to do dishes post-perfectly-cooked-salmon-dinner.

And the highlight of highlights (drum roll please)…we saw a bear within 50 feet today. Around five pm, one of the Moms was getting a little antsy from being cooped up inside on a beautiful day, and wanted to go on a hike. So Jeff (the super cool Earthwatch director) and I rallied together and got a couple others to come with us. We hiked up to the reservoir up in the hills behind the house, and once we got into the trail we started finding bear scat that was relatively fresh. We had seen bear scat on the trail before, but never that fresh, so needless to say (me being the only staff member) I was on my toes. But we made it to the reservoir just fine, and I was relaxing on a log about 2 minutes before we heard crashing across the water and a Jeff saying good and loud, “BEAR.”

It never got to a point where it was a threat, because the bear was a cub and there was like I said about fifty feet of water between us and it. Nevertheless I knew that seeing a cub is the worst type of bear because it means Mom isn’t far away. We had a good time talking loud to it, taking photos and videos and watching it pick berries. But after about twenty minutes of that, we finally saw Mama, and she was heading down to our end of the reservoir, and at that point I decided it was time to head back. It was a super exciting last night of the trip, and it made Jeff’s whole trip because he’d never seen a bear before. I think he got quite first taste of one tonight. And me…I just can’t get over the fact that I’ve seen three in the last two weeks, not to mention probably having one within staring contest distance while checking a camera.

Tonight has of course been a slightly bittersweet last night for the volunteers, because it’s my last group of volunteers before I leave on Friday. I’m excited to go home, and the first week of being back in civilization will still be awesome, being part of my best friend’s wedding. But then it’s back to REAL real life, and even though I’ve been working here and getting paid to do it, I’d gladly pay it all back to spend another six weeks up here in this great place with all these great people. I know that all good things come to an end (or at least take a break before the next good thing), I’m thankful for what I’ve learned and seen and been a part of here; I’m ready for yet another phase of life to end and another begin, but one thing’s for sure: I’m going out with a BANG.

Smooth sailing, happy trails, always throw your hooks out because you never know what you’ll catch, and don’t be afraid to jump because more often than not, the water’s just fine. Oh and don’t forget to double-foil wrap when you fire-cook salmon, because losing those delicious juices when the foil tears is an EPIC party foul.